RIBA Chartered Architect - Cheshire and North Wales
Client originally wanted to remodel and extend the existing house but the rooms and areas they wanted would have been compromised we advised a new build was a better option, plus there is the benefit they don’t pay VAT
Just received planning permission
Conservation Area
Should be starting on site this year
Our city break to Lisbon was short but we were able to see many sights without rushing around too much. Our travel around the city was varied. We walked along the traditionally styled Portuguese pavement (consisting of small flat pieces of stones arranges in mosaic). We used a Hive Scooter. We dodged pedestrians while mastering an Uber electric bike. We relaxed in a Tuk Tuk as we were driven around the streets.
It’s good to have a purpose, and visit the famous features. However, it’s also good to meander. We walked the tiny cobbled streets and climbed and descended steps. We spotted beautifully decorated houses alongside buildings in need of renovation. We gazed at ornate gated entrances and wondered what lay behind them. We often felt we were getting lost, only to come to a place we recognised, as when we wandered through a maze of narrow streets, then emerged into a square near the Museu do Fado.
Here are some of the architectural highlights.
Praca do Comercio
Praca do Comercio is spectacular. It is situated on the river-front and is surrounded by symmetrical buildings with lemon coloured facades and grand arches. From the square, the Arco da Rua Augusta provides an impressive view to the other well know square in Lisbon, the Rossio.
In the opposite direction (south) are the marble stairs (Cais das Colunas) that lead down to the waters edge. It’s easy to imagine royalty and dignitaries of yesteryear parading in their finery.
There was a large festival taking place in the Praca Do Commercio while we were there. Dancing, stalls and loud music, along with the bright buildings, made the atmosphere vibrant.
The Praca do Comercio and Augusta Street contain examples of key Portuguese architectural styles. The Pombaline building, characterised by a four-storey block with differentiated windows and symmetrical facades, is a Portuguese style from the 18th Century introduced after the 1755 earthquake. The design is one of the first instances of earthquake resistant construction. It comprises a flexible wooden structure implanted on the walls, floors and roofs that are later covered by pre-manufactured building materials so they shake but don’t fall down. Reading its architectural history, it is fascinating to learn that the Marquis of Pombal ordered that models be built then troops march around them to simulate an earthquake.
Santa Justa Lift
Walking back into the city from the Praca do Comercio we passed the magnificent Santa Justa Lift. The lift connects the lower streets of the Baixa district to Largo do Carmo (Carmo Square). The wrought iron has not just been used as a construction material it has been used as an art form. There are amazing geometric patterns and neo-gothic arches. A symbol of the industrial age, this magnificent piece of engineering was opened in 1902. It rises an impressive 45 metres high. It has many similarities to the Eiffel Tower – it’s builder (Raoul Mesnier de Ponsard) was an admirer of Gustave Eiffel. It was originally powered by steam but, in 1907 was converted to electrical operation by a British company (R. Waygood). It is now classified as a National Monument.
Alfama Neighbourhood:
We explored Alfama in the evening. The narrow streets were decorated and there was music everywhere, because it was the Santo Antonio Festival (a celebration of Portugal’s patron saint). We ate a delicious monkfish stew at a small restaurant called Beco (Beco do Espirito, Santo 9, Alfama) then strolled through the streets. The sheer joy of living pulsated around you with people dancing and singing.
Next morning it was time to set off to the airport and the pleasingly short flight back to the UK.
Conclusions
Bearing in mind that Lisbon hadn’t been on my list of places to visit, was the trip a success? Absolutely. I feel I only scratched the surface of the architectural delights it has to offer.
It was a good decision to combine purposeful visits to famous buildings with casual perambulation that yielded unexpected delights.
In parallel with exploring Lisbon’s architecture, we explored Lisbon’s culinary delights. We sampled traditional Pastel de Nata (pastry nest filled with custard cream) at one of the many small cafes. We enjoyed a breakfast (and a lunch) at Local Avenida (R.Rodrigues Sampaio No134 1150-282 Lisboa). We had drinks at the roof top Sky Bar at Hotel Tivoli (Avenida da Liberdade 185 Lison 1269-050) in the centre of Lisbon and were able to take in the postcard-perfect panorama of the hillsides. We visited the Mercado Do Ribeira where Time Out have brought together some of Lisbon best eating experiences under one roof – sardines, cheese, seafood, pastries, steak.
On my next visit I would like to take one of the ferries on the River Tagus and view the city from the water.
If you are thinking of visiting Lisbon, or have any questions arising from this item, don’t hesitate to contact me – Alison Taylor-Stokes, ICE Arch Ltd, alison@ice-arch.co.uk
OLÁ. Lisbon hadn’t been on my list of places to visit but when a friend suggested it for a city break, I thought it could be fun. It proved to be a great choice. I fell in love with the city and, although it was a short stay, its vibrancy was addictive.
My initial impression was that Lisbon was old-fashioned and a bit ‘down at heel’. However, as I walked round, I could see areas of renovation and (dare I say it) ‘gentrification’. A sense of history comes from the ancient tiled buildings, colourful street art, laundry flapping from the windows of homes, and the slippy tiled paths (when it rains you need to tread carefully). Renovation is along the water front, with buildings such as the MAAT (by Amanda Levete) giving it a modern aura. We were visiting in June so there was a great party vibe because of the ‘Festas Populares’. We enjoyed the smell of barbequed sardines, sampled the ginjinha (cherry liqueur in chocolate pots) and danced to the cheesy pimba pop music that was played at the many parties in streets and parks.
Lisbon feels smaller than my favourite city, Barcelona. That’s because the main tourist area is squeezed between seven hills. It is easy to explore on foot, but exhausting when it is warm. Like Barcelona, Lisbon is a coastal city at the mouth of a river. Lisbon’s river Tagus was the departure point for many explorers who discovered new lands around the world, and returned with new and exciting foods, architecture and cultures.
The influence of migrants from Portugal’s former colonies are easy to see everywhere and the buildings represent an amazing range of styles. I had pre-planned visits to some of the key architectural features of the city.
Belem Tower
Belem Tower illustrates the eclectic architectural styles of the Portuguese Renaissance. Built of Lioz limestone it is an impressive 4-storey structure protruding out from the shore-line. Designed by architect Fracisco de Arrudo in 1515, it owes much to the Moorish styles that characterises his work on other Portuguese fortresses in Morocco. It’s notable for its Portuguese Manueline features – nautical style carvings and rounded shields with the cross of the Order of Christ – but there are hints of other architectural styles such as the Moorish arched windows, balconies and ribbed cupolas of the watchtowers.
We visited the Belem Tower in the morning before the area became too busy so it was easy to appreciate its role as a striking monument to Europe’s ‘Age of Discoveries’. For centuries it served as Lisbon’s ceremonial point of departure and return and the statue of Our Lady of Safe Homecoming metaphorically offers protection to sailors. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.
MAAT
This modern structure (opened in 2016) is the Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology and was designed by British architect Amanda Levete. It’s a short walk/scooter ride along the bank of the River Tagus from Belem Tower. In my opinion it is an ionic piece of architecture and is probably my favourite building of all in Lisbon. The new structure is almost organic, in juxtaposition to the historic industrial architecture of the Tejo Power Station. This contrast is deliberate and, in fact, the power station was refurbished as part of the MAAT project. It was fun walking over the new building though the ‘geek’ in me wonders what it would be like when it rains.
You can see that there has been careful thought with the choice of materials. Limestone is typical of many of the Lisbon buildings and the ceramic tile lining of the overhanging façade are also part of Lisbon’s architectural style. I’m not sure my photos really do the building justice. I would love to view the building from the other side of the Tagus or from a boat – maybe another visit to Lisbon is needed!
Funicular railway and Bairro Alto neigbourhood
Our final planned destination was the funicular railway. Usually people travel on it up Calcada da Gloria but chose to walk up the very steep road. It was our first day and we had been sitting on a plane too long, so exercise was needed! It was a slow climb, because we stopped frequently to view the amazing street art. The road ascends from Praca dos Restauradores to the Bairro Alto neighbourhood and once at the top we were looking out over the Lisbon rooftops.
Apparently, the Gloria Funicular was established in 1885 and was initially moved by a water counter balancing system before becoming steam powered and then being converted to electric in 1915. I have to say it was fascinating walking up the track and watching it travel.
Bairro Alto Neigbourhood had a similar vibrancy to Afama but in hindsight felt a little more touristy. We ate at a wonderful restaurant called Dias no Bairro (Rua do Notre, 81 Bairro Alto 1200-284 Lisboa) choosing to have Portuguese tapas. The streets were filled with restaurant tables and there was quite a bohemian vibe.
Barrio Alto is one of the places where the buildings mostly survived the Great Earthquake of Lisbon in 1755. Some of these older buildings look to have had their facades retained but redesigned behind to accommodate the growth of the resident population. Where a building hasn’t been demolished a mansard roof has been added.
Our trip to this neighbourhood culminated in the Jardim de Sao Pedro de Alcantara. One of the may Portuguese June celebrations were taking place. We enjoyed the view out over the city at night.
If you are thinking of visiting Lisbon, or have any questions arising from this item, don’t hesitate to contact me – Alison Taylor-Stokes, ICE Arch Ltd, alison@ice-arch.co.uk
Great site visit today. LJR Developments are back on programme after delays due to discovery of additional badger setts and the weather.
You may be interested to know that ICE Arch’s principal architect – Alison Taylor-Stokes – is RIBA-trained in Conservation Architecture.
This means that she is conversant with the philosophy and principles of conservation, and familiar with relevant legislation, policies and guidance.
She well-understands the causes and consequences of defects and decay. She has the skills to undertake surveys and investigations, and to apply appropriate techniques to ameliorate and stabilise existing structures. This is likely to involve conservation and repair of traditional materials including stone, brickwork, timber and lime products and non-traditional materials including concrete.
At the same time, she will devise a scheme that improves the building’s functionality and comfort, while building-in state-of-the-art services and energy performance.
According to your goals and the building’s context, the scheme might be primarily ‘preservation’, in that usage, regional characteristics, materials and methods are retained. On the other hand, the historic building might be adapted for new use, upgraded or modernised.
